BY MOHAMMAD TARIQUE SALEEM
Standing on the rocky cliffs above Muscat’s old harbour, Mirani Fort feels almost timeless. In the late-afternoon glow, its pale stone turns golden, blending into the rugged mountains behind it, while the Gulf of Oman stretches out like a shimmering sheet of blue glass. From a distance, Mirani seems alive, quiet, watchful and full of stories waiting to be told. During our visit, Omar Al Balushi, a Foreign Media Specialist from Oman’s Ministry of Information, greeted us with a smile and said, “The first thing you need to know is that we didn’t build this fort.” His words instantly pulled us into the layered history of this remarkable landmark.
Mirani Fort, nearly 450 years old, is one of the most significant coastal structures in the region. Its origins trace back to the early 16th century when the Portuguese arrived in 1507. Drawn by Muscat’s natural deep-water harbour and its strategic position at the crossroads of India, East Africa and Arabia, they quickly realised that whoever controlled Muscat controlled some of the world’s most lucrative maritime routes.
And so, they fortified it. Mirani became their most critical stronghold, perched high on the cliff with sweeping views of the sea and coastline. From its battlements, Portuguese soldiers monitored every vessel entering the harbour. Cannons lined the walls, lookout posts stood alert and storerooms filled with gunpowder ensured the fort was always prepared for conflict. Ships carrying spices, copper, textiles, dates and frankincense were inspected, regulated and taxed.
Mirani’s role in overseeing maritime commerce shaped Muscat’s economy for generations. As Omar guided us along the outer walls, he pointed out faint carvings, crosses, names and dates etched by Portuguese soldiers centuries ago. These ghostly marks, softened by time and sun, offered a rare glimpse into the lives of men who once stood watch over the same waters.
But Mirani’s story is not one of foreign rule alone. Omar emphasised that the liberation of Muscat unfolded in two crucial stages, each led by visionary Imams whose determination shaped Oman’s destiny. The first steps were taken by Imam Nasser bin Murshid Al Ya’arubi, the founder of the Ya’aruba dynasty. He initiated the unification of Oman and launched the early campaigns that weakened Portuguese control across the coastline. His leadership laid the foundation for a stronger, united Oman capable of challenging European dominance.
Years later, Imam Sultan bin Saif Al Ya’arubi delivered the final, decisive blow. His forces besieged Muscat by land and sea, gradually tightening their hold on the Portuguese outposts. After nearly two years of determined resistance, the Portuguese finally surrendered Mirani Fort in 1650. “On that day,” Omar said softly, “we took back more than a fort. We reclaimed our dignity.” The pride in his voice made it easy to imagine the joy and relief felt by the people of Muscat at the time.
Following the victory, the Omanis strengthened Mirani, reinforcing its walls and incorporating architectural elements that reflected their own identity. The fort became a symbol of a rising maritime nation whose influence stretched from the Arabian Peninsula to East Africa, including Zanzibar. Mirani’s role evolved, from a tool of foreign control into the heart of a confident, expanding Omani empire.
Today, Mirani Fort stands proudly as a restored and well-preserved heritage landmark. It is fully accessible to the public, and visitors can walk around its exterior at any time, taking in panoramic views of the harbour and Old Muscat. While entry inside remains restricted due to its strategic function, the fort’s towering round bastions, narrow arrow-slits and sun-worn stone offer plenty to admire. It does not feel like a ruin; it feels alive, an enduring witness to centuries of change.
Omar shared another insight that deepened the emotional connection to the place. Long before any European ships appeared on the horizon, Indian dhows regularly sailed into this harbour during the monsoon winds. Omanis and Indians traded side by side, exchanging goods with trust and mutual respect. “That relationship,” Omar reminded us, “was built on trust, not force.”
Standing there with the fort behind us and the sparkling water ahead, it felt as though the ancient trade routes still whispered their stories across the waves. Modern Muscat has grown around Mirani, but the fort remains the soul of the harbour. Today, young Omanis run cafés and small shops nearby, where tourists sip karak tea under the shade and fishermen mend their nets just as they have for centuries.
A site once marked by occupation has transformed into a source of pride, identity and livelihood. As we walked away, the silhouette of Mirani stood against the setting sun, a blend of Portuguese foundations, Omani resilience and the spirit of a nation that has always found strength in its history.
